Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
